Hardy Rootstocks

We carry a selection of rootstocks that we consider to be some of the best options for home or commercial use. Even without grafting, any of these will produce fruit suitable for wildlife. For rootstocks we do not currently stock, or for larger calipers or larger quantities, please contact us for information. We also offer knives and grafting supplies in the Organic Growers Supply branch of Fedco.

Please note! We do our best to provide ¼" caliper stock. Because of factors beyond our control (such as weather!) stock may be 3/16–3/8". We cannot guarantee scion or rootstock diameter.

Please join us in late March for the annual Seed Swap and Scionwood Exchange, held every Spring at MOFGA in Unity, ME. Visit mofga.org to learn about other organic orcharding classes and events.

Apples

Jump to: | Growing apple trees | Choosing a rootstock.

Choosing the Right Apple

Not sure where to start? Check out our Apple Chart!

Choosing a variety: Not every variety may be right for you. All-purpose apples are just that—they’re good for a bunch of jobs. If you're planting just one tree, perhaps start there. However, if you’re a history buff, consider the historical varieties and maybe plant one that originated nearby. If you don’t eat many apples but love pies, go for the pie apples. If you’re a dessert connoisseur, skip all the others and go for the highly flavored dessert varieties. Some are strictly for cider. Some are great to put out at the camp for summer use. Some are perfect for those who want fall fruit but don’t have a root cellar. Others keep all winter and into the following summer. Jump to: | Choosing a rootstock

• Summer apples ripen in summer, are generally crisp only for a short period, do not store well, and are often best for cooking.
• Fall apples store longer and are useful for a wide variety of purposes.
• Winter apples ripen mid to late fall, store well, and reach their best flavor after weeks, or even months, of storage.
• Dessert apples are delicious eaten raw.
• Crabapples are less than 2" in diameter. Some crabs bear edible or culinary or cider-making fruit. Some have persistent wildlife fruit that hangs on the tree for weeks or even months. Others have hardly any fruit at all. Some are beautiful ornamentals.
• Cider apples are especially suited to making fermented “hard” cider. Some cider apples are also good dessert fruit, but most are not.
• Subacid means tart!
• Russet or russeting is a skin texture (fairly common on apple varieties and on a few pears and potatoes) which looks and feels somewhat like suede.
• Bloom is a naturally occurring dust-like yeast film on the skin of some varieties of apples, plums, grapes and blueberries.

Cider Apples

Each year we offer a different assortment of the best European and American cider varieties, including new wild apple introductions from local fruit explorers and cidermakers. Many of these are NOT for fresh eating. They do however possess qualities that make them very desirable for fermented cider production.

Seedling Apples

These trees were grown from seeds, rather than grafted onto rootstock like the other apple varieties we offer.

These standard-sized trees will grow to 20–30'.

Flowering and Culinary Crabapples

A crabapple is any apple with fruit smaller than 2" in diameter. All crabs bear edible fruit, some more favorable for culinary use than others. Some fruits are persistent, hanging on the branch through winter and providing forage for robins, jays and waxwings in the early spring. The flowers, tree form and even the shape of the leaves can vary subtly or profoundly. Most are magnificent in bloom and ornamental year round, especially in winter when the leaves drop and the trees show off their interesting forms.

Growing Apples

• Soil: Adaptable, but prefers well-drained fertile soil.
• Sun: Full.
• Pollination: Requires a second variety for pollination. Any apple or crabapple blooming within a quarter mile will probably do.
• Planting and Pruning: See our planning and planting and pests and diseases pages for more information about soil prep, planting, pruning, and pest control.
• Spacing:
  • For trees on Antonovka and Bud 118 rootstock, 20–25' apart.
  • M111 semi-dwarf, 15–20' apart.
  • G890 semi-dwarf, 10–15' apart.
  • Bud 9 dwarf, 5–10' apart.

Choosing a Rootstock

Rootstock determines the size, longevity, hardiness and growth habits of a tree. After enthusiastic response from customers, we continue to offer an assortment of dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks in addition to the standard.

Looking for rootstock to graft your own trees? See: Rootstock for grafting.

• Standard rootstock: Most of the apples we offer are on standard full-sized Antonovka rootstock (and occasionally another full-sized rootstock). Standard trees have deep, substantial—and therefore hardier—root systems. By selecting the varieties appropriate to your district, grafted on standard rootstock, you may well be planting a tree that will be picked by your grandchildren’s grandchildren. Standard trees will grow to be large, but you can manage the size with pruning. The largest trees in our orchards are now about 30 years old, yet the tallest are well under 20' due to careful pruning. Although standard-sized apple trees may be planted as close as 10–15' apart, they were typically planted 30' apart in 19th-c. orchards. We generally plant standard trees 20–25' apart with good results. (Trees on standard stock are shipped at 3-6'.)
• Semi-dwarf and dwarf rootstocks: We offer an assortment of semi-dwarf and dwarf apple trees on Bud 118, M111 and Bud 9 rootstocks. Each has great advantages for some growers, but these size-controlling rootstocks also have their limitations. Please read on and decide if they are what you want. If you are uncertain, stick with the good old standards, which are extremely rugged, hardier, more tolerant of drought and poor soils, very long-lived, and more capable of thriving under a regime of benign neglect.
• Bud 118 semi-dwarfing rootstock produces a tree about 85–90% of standard size or even larger. Sometimes Bud 118 trees are called semi-standards or even standards. Considered to be more precocious (fruiting at a young age) than standards, and probably more productive. Very hardy, though not as hardy as Antonovka. Plant about 20–25' apart.
• M111 semi-dwarfing rootstock produces a tree about 65–80% of standard size. Sometimes M111 trees are called semi-standards. M111 may not be more precocious than standard-sized trees. However they will likely be more productive. M111 has a relatively shallow spreading root system, does well in light soils, and is relatively drought tolerant. Prone to suckering; not as long-lived or hardy as Antonovka. You can plant them closer together than standards, about 15–20' apart.
• G890 semi-dwarfing rootstock produces a tree about 55–65% of standard size. Adaptable to different climates and soil types, deeply rooted and hardy. Highly resistant to fireblight—the varieties we offer on G890 are ones we’ve found to be susceptible to fireblight in some locations. Plant trees 10–15' apart.
• Bud 9 dwarfing rootstock produces a small dwarf tree, 25–55% of standard size. This makes it easy to spray, prune and pick. It requires less space in your yard and will fruit at an early age. Trees should be staked or trellised for support. These trees are hardy, though not as hardy as Antonovka, and they won’t live as long. You can plant trees 5–10' apart.