Peaches
Peaches Prunus persica
Northern New England peach growing can be very successful. The trees often bear so heavily that the fruit needs thinning and the branches need support. Some winters can be hard on certain peach trees, and they may die. Other trees live for many years. Replant and try again. They are worth the trouble, and since they bear young, you won’t have to wait too long!
Peaches are usually unaffected by pests or diseases in northern areas, the occasional exception being peach leaf curl. PLC is not a fatal problem but does need to be controlled if you get hit with it. Look for crinkled or puckered foliage in spring. Remove affected leaves and compost them. Spray the tree with lime, sulfur or copper early the following spring while it is still dormant (before any buds open!) Onion, garlic or horsetail spray while leafed-out may also be effective. It’s common for peaches to have black gummy wounds. This is usually harmless and happens from any environmental stress, even when a bird or a bug looks sideways at the tree.
Mature trees will be 10–15' tall.
Growing Peaches
- Soil: Prefers well-drained fertile soil.
- Sun: Full.
- Pollination: Self-pollinating. You only need one tree.
- Spacing: Plant 20' apart.
- Planting: See our planning and planting and pests and diseases pages for more information about soil prep, planting and pest control.
- Pruning: Prune in spring after the buds begin to
swell
and show pink. Remove dead and inward-growing branches. Make a few
bold
cuts to bring main branches closer to the trunk. After cutting back
any
main branches, thin last year’s shoots and cut them back to
about
12–18". When you’re done, the tree shape should look
something like an open hand reaching for a peach, with the tree not
much
taller than 10' or so.
The goal is to keep trees small and open. Peach trees grow vigorously each year and fruit on the previous year’s wood. Leggy branches will break from the weight of fruit.